Surfing The Big Boys

I live near a beach and can see the shore from the balcony of my house. Surfing is my sport and I occasionally take my board and head for the water. The sea here is particularly unsettled with huge waves being the norm. I get thrilled riding these colossal waves. Yes, I know it's dangerous, but I cant help it because I love surfing too much. One day I nearly drowned when an immense breaking wave hit me hard. Saying the impact shook the hell out of me would be an understatement. I have never felt so terrified in my life. Fortunately, I was able to regain my balance and rise to the top just in time.

The other day my friend called, asking that we go surfing. Now that's a suggestion I find hard to turn down. So I told him to give me an hour to get ready. I had to mow my lawn before I could do anything else that day. So I hastily grabbed the lawn mower and started the engine. The mower is so easy to use and I think I got the best in the market. Its movement is so fluid and it cuts pretty close to where I want it. I have never had any breakdown issues since I bought it after reading a review at, which is now almost three years.

Anyway, within about 15 minutes I was done. I returned my Black & Decker electric lawnmower  where I usually keep it. I was not as tired as I thought I would be, which is good because who wants to go surfing when they're already tired? At the beach, my friend had already arrived. He asked me why I seemed overly jubilant and I tell him to stop acting funny, because I am always happy to surf. He was already in his wetsuit and was holding his board to his side. We didn't waste time and were off to hit the water.

It looked like we were in for a rough time because the waves looked so dangerous and full of fury. We were determined  to go on because surfing is what we have come for. We splashed around in the water before deciding to drift off. With surfing, you need to relax your mind so you are prepared to take on the feeling of being terrified when conditions turn against you. Finally we were off riding the waves. There weren't many surfers that day and it was like we had the whole ocean to ourselves. We really enjoy the sport.

After what seemed like hours, I was getting tired and was thankful to see my friend headed for the shore. I joined him and we sat on the sandy beach watching the other surfers enjoy themselves. It was almost twilight when we made the effort to go back to our houses. Of course we will come back some other warm afternoon.