There are two feelings in life that still can't be beat for me: 1) Drinking coffee 2) Grabbing my surfboard and riding the first wave of the day, good or bad. These things aren't just ordinary feelings for me but become a necessity when things go haywire or downright bad in my life.
I would go as far as to claim that surfing saved my life. In my youth, when my dad passed away and I had no guidance, luckily, I turned to the ocean. I always loved to swim but never thought about surfing. Not up until a friend from school came up to me and invited me. He gave me my first surf lesson which didn't go all too well, but I will never forget the feeling of the rush:
Happy to say I chase that rush a couple of times a week at the crack of dawn. It helps me to feel one with nature. In fact, I am thinking of checking out this website last week. I have been working overtime, trying to save up for this pretty awesome Origami type of canoe/kayak called the Oru bay kayak. It shouldn't come as a surprise that not only do I surf, but I enjoying canoeing and kayaking.
I didn't realize that the Oru Bay was featured on the Shark Tank! I love watching an episode of Shark Tank while I wash the coffee pot in the morning. Talk about another show that keeps me inspired. Anyway, speaking of inspiration, I want to share some amazing, awe inspiring things on here. What else can I share? How can I create a community here? I was told by friends who have websites (I know a couple :) ) that being involved in forums and sharing some really good videos, discussions/posts would be great, but the first year is the hardest.
I am finding the first six months to be the hardest, as I hold a full-time job and it has been hard posting on here. Lastly, did anyone read about the crazy story of 400 whales stranded on shore and dying? How sad is that? It happened in New Zealand. They are reporting that at least 300 have been reported as dead. If you want to read more about it, click on this link for the whale story.
In other news, people are crazy and I'm more than ever motivated to share some really cool techniques on here as well as helpful information like the best surf gear, soon!